Anemone interrogate. Bubble Tip feding issues?
My BTA is in a 30 gallon, lots of live rock, live sand, soft corals, mushrooms, and contains 4 clownfsh (2 mate pair who bring along) and one Royal Gramma, 2 hermit crabs and a peppermint shrimp and one coral banded shrimp. Skimmer, UV Filter, 2 power head, 2 bio filters.
Answers: I've get a bubbletip "rescue" myself last week. One item you don't mention is your lighting, and that may be important to your anemone's taking back. Since you have other corals, I'd assume you enjoy at least a compact fluorescent or T-5 system.
I merely was discussion offline with two other forum member about the use of reptile bulbs for sailing tanks. Three relatives I know have tried them, and it seem that anemones and corals seem to perk up lower than the more intense/UVB lighting. I don't know how far yours is into the bleaching process (and some neon bubbletips are a naturally drawn color), but this might be something you can try.
Another suggestion would be to isolate him from your clowns - especially if they are trying to "snuggle" into it. It this behavior causes your anemone to annul into itself, it may not feed. Also, peppermint shrimp hold a way of stealing food away from slower-feeding anemones and polyps. About adjectives you can do is to continue trying to nurture, keep it from anyone stressed by other tank inhabitants until it's resourcefully, and making sure it has top part water parameter - no ammonia and nitrites, nitrates as low as possible; pH 8.2-8.4; salinity 1.024-1.026; temperature 76-80oF. Also be sure it's out of get of any other corals (they can sting each other, and some confer off toxic chemicals to cutback competition for food and lighting). You can also try carbon in your filter to remove any toxins produced.
Here's a relation on anemone care that's for a time more in-depth: http://www.carlosreef.com/AnemoneFAQ.pdf
ADDITION: I should also mention the frequency of changing your lighting tubes/bulbs. Even they may not burn out, the amount of usable restrained produced declines speedily, so it's in the best interests of your photosynthetic organisms to revise the tubes/bulbs at least on a once a year basis (if not at 6-9 months). If your container has be set up longer than this, all of your photosynthetics may be suffering a slow decline.
Assuming your marine parameters are surrounded by check, and your lighting is sufficient, I wouldn't worry too much. BTAs are something like as tough as anemones come. More than likely, he's spitting out the food because he's not hungry. I cogitate you are actually overfeeding your cistern a bit. Photosynthetic corals and anemones get most of their nutrients from table lamp.
I would cut back the phyto to no more than 3 times a week. Same next to the anemone, I wouldn't feed it more than 2 or 3 times a week. Silversides and krill are both okay, and you can soak them surrounded by a good supplement close to Selcon to add some extra nutritional merit. Make sure the portions you are feeding him are small adequate to fit in his mouth.
If the clowns are hosting the anemone, afterwards they will feed it as resourcefully. However, if you have Ocellaris or Percula Clowns, after they may not host the BTA, as it is not their natural host. Either path, it shouldn't affect the anemone. The best way to evaluate an anemone's health is the check its mouth and foot. The mouth should be tightly closed, and the foot should enjoy no visible signs of tear. If the BTA is constantly moving around in your reservoir, then it can't find a spot it like, and this could also be a sign of trouble.
Regards
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