White spot or bacterial infection? Tropical fish freshwater?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Tank temp 26 degree
Other fish:
Gourami dwarf/moonlight
Clown loach
Kuhli loach
Neons
Guppys
Tetra
Coreys
Hatchet fish
Armoured shrimp
? clawed frog
Many thanks, Andrea
Answers: One white spot on respectively fish is not ick. There would be much more than that. How about checking those nitrates? If they are above 20 ppm after that is the problem. The spots should restore to health on their own but you can aid by raising the temp of the cistern to 83 degrees and include one table spoon of non iodized rock salt (kosher will do) per gallon and resign from in that for around 2 weeks. When doing a water modify replace the water near the same concentration of saline mix. Get nitrates fixed before you start off salt treatment. After two weeks are up afterwards replace water near out the salt and lower the temp spinal column down 2 degrees per afternoon until you get to 77-79. Keep an eye on those nitrates and evolution the water when they bring back to 20 ppm.
Meds will have predictable killed rotten many of the beneficial germs in the filter, it would be a right idea to grasp that med out of the water via dampen changes. Use meds as a finishing resort not first. Many will kill the fish faster than the disease. Its even more insecure when you misdiagnose the disease the fish has, which I believe that's the defence this time. A good rule of thumb, that if you medicate and by the second or third time nothing have improved later you are on the wrong track. It will also take the fish as long to make well as it has be sick, so if you let sickness dance on too long the fish cannot get better and next dies. 95% of the time when fish get sick it is due to sea quality issues. Always first check your cistern perameters when problems arise. Usually the problem can be found and corrected with marine changes instead of meds. Fish involve to be in completely clean hose to thrive. That's a tank that have a stable pH, zero ammonia and nitrites, and nitrAtes below 20 ppm. Nitrates and nitrites are two different things. In a long established aquarium (running more than 2 or 3 months), nitrAtes must be closely watch along with pH. There should be no nitrites or ammonia within well established aquarium. If pH falls below 6.8 modify water and or if nitrates are 20 ppm or above. Change wet ANY time ammonia or nitrite are present. Run an airstone to rid the tank of carbon dioxide and diffuse gasses. Keep the marine temperature like at all times except for medicating. Most pathogens cannot survive long after the temp get to 82 degrees and if that doesn't capture them the salt will. Treat adjectives external ailments with warmth and salt. Treat adjectives internal infections with anti-biotic food. Avoid dumping meds into the container water, its not safe and sound. Take the frog out, I don't think it tolerates saline. Make sure all the fish you hold in your container can tolerate salt earlier you do this.
Your fish has a fungus (ick) it sounds similar to you can just budge to your pet shop and get a touch bottle of medication. Ask the fish dept employee to recommed a med. for you and communicate them what kinds of fish you hold and how big your tank is. There are alot of meds to choose from. They come contained by tablet form or liquid. Carefully follow the directions on the med bottle and virtuous luck!
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