Can a pet rabbit get a cold if he's out in the rain?

he loves being out in the rain but not sure if this can lead to him 'catching' a cold?
Answers:
yes
yes it can lead to him getting a cold and a fever too, be careful.
Of course! Bring him in and give him some weetabix and some extra hay.
hel be ok if you dry him before puttin him away for the night cos thats when hes likely to get cold at night
if he does use robitussin
yes
my rabbit died soon after he stayed out in the rain, i stupidly thought he'd be fine because rabbits in the wild do it and he seemed to love it. Bring him in or you'll never forgive yourself if anything happens to him.
my advice, fix him a nice hot boiling bath, add some carrots, potatoes, a lil salt maybe some garlic.
Yes. Would leave a child out in the cold?
They sure will.after all they r also animals!!
Being out in the rain will make him cold and drop his body heat temperature which will lower the effectiveness of his immune system. But if there isn't a cold virus that can gain access into his body he will not get sick. But if there is a virus he will be more likely to get sick, because of his immune system not being able to kill the virus fast enough.
yes they can
Just like humans, getting cold/feeling cold/getting wet etc have absolutely no affect on whether you get a cold or not - it is purely if the cold virus or germ is around, then some will catch it, and some will not. The "common cold" is one of medecine's unsolved mysteries.there is a Research Centre devoted to this, and to quote them
"Can a chill cause a cold? There is no scientific evidence that chilling the body causes an increased susceptibility to infection or an increase in the severity of symptoms."
A rabbit can't really get a cold but, you should always offer him a dry area to rest. If he has a food and water bowl try keeping them out of the rain so, if he doesn't want to get wet he doesn't have to. After it rains you might want to take a towel and dry him off a little. Doing this will keep him warm.
Yes - take it to the vets if its unwell!
Yes .cold or wet conditions lead to stress, leading to a suppressed immune system and so can be a cause of "a cold", and also by a decreasing the efficiency of the mucociliary clearance mechanism of the rabbits airways and so prevent the clearance of particulate matter, bacteria and viruses from the airways and so forming a nidus for infection or a "cold". But please be aware of a more sinister condition called "Snuffles" and it is potentially fatal so if in doubt, take him to the vet for a little check up!
Rabbits don't get colds but they can get pneumonia.
of corse
seen as your rabbit is outside i get you some info about house training and things and yes it can get a cold keep it inside as much as possible!!

It is extremely important to protect your Angora from the outside elements. I have mine in a building that is well ventilated. One needs to make sure the rabbits are not in a direct draft. If you must house your rabbit outside be sure to have the cages covered to protect the rabbits.

Angoras can withstand various temperatures, however, extreme heat can be fatal. If your rabbit is used to being outside be sure it is in a shaded area. If temperatures are above 80 degrees you need to place a frozen water bottle ( a two liter soda bottle works well) in the cage so the rabbit may lay against it to cool off. A rabbits ears are its thermostat so I suggest you lightly mist the ears to help cool it down.

In winter temperatures it is best to shield the rabbit cage from the winter winds, snow, etc. The hardest part of having your rabbit outside in the winter months is trying to supply enough fresh water as it will freeze quickly.

WATER:

It is best to use water bottles with angora rabbits. Using a crock for water causes their furnishings to mat more quickly.

FEEDERS:

I use 4" crocks to feed my rabbits that have the lip on them so when they decide to 'dig' in their food it is not wasted.

FEED:

I use Heinhold Wool Formula with my rabbits, however, other feeds may be used. I feed a 3/4 cup of feed per day. I also feed alfalfa or hay daily to help break down wool that has been ingested so they don’t get wool block. One of the things I have also found useful is to feed a quarter-cup of wild bird seed (I buy mine at Wal-Mart) twice a week. They love it and will usually eat the bird seed before the pellets.

Treats are always enjoyed by rabbits, however, too much of a good thing can cause diarrhea. Various treats can consist of: carrots, dried bread, crackers, apples, corn, corn stalks, grass, banana, dried pineapple, etc.

WOOLBLOCK:

Angora rabbits can die from woolblock. Where cats and dogs can vomit when they have a hairball rabbits cannot. The best way to treat woolblock is prevention. Grooming the rabbit frequently and providing a proper diet is well worth it in the long run. If you do have problems with woolblock one of the first signs will be the rabbit is not eating and/or the size of the droppings gets smaller than usual for that rabbit. I have found the best treatment to be dandelions (if you are as fortunate as I am to have lots of them available). I feed two large handfuls per day along with all of the alfalfa, hay, and bird seed the rabbit will eat. I do not feed any pellets during this time. Once I see the size of the droppings has gotten larger again I will give pellets to the rabbit.

Other remedies can include giving pineapple juice (frozen concentrate) one tablespoon of juice to two tablespoons of water, papaya tablets, petromalt (hairball remedy for cats) or Colace syrup.

One should also clip the wool as short as possible so the rabbit does not ingest anymore wool.

EXERCISE:

Everyone should have some exercise including your rabbit. Allowing your rabbit to run and have fun either outdoors (if the weather permits) preferably in a fenced area is very beneficial to your rabbit. I have a deck that my rabbits get to take turns using or I put a play pen up in the barn for them to spend the day in.

GROOMING:

Your grooming supplies need to consist of at least a soft slicker brush and flea comb or regular hair comb.

You should groom your rabbit at least once a week. I suggest you use a soft slicker brush as it will not pull out large amount of wool that a harder slicker brush will. You need to make sure you groom the belly side as well as the top. I find it easiest to hold the bunny like a baby to groom the belly and hind legs. I then place its ears between my knees to groom the face, (which I use a flea comb on the cheeks) chest, and front legs. To groom the top side of the rabbit I just sit it on my lap and start at the side and work to the top.

If you have several rabbits you may want to invest in a pet blower, however, they are not cheap! Before I purchased my pet blower I used the exhaust on my wet/dry vac to blow the loose wool from the rabbit before I brushed it. If you don’t have a wet/dry vac, you may want to use a hair dryer. Be sure not to use a heat hair dryer as it will dry the rabbits skin and cause dander.

I find most people who only have one or two rabbits usually just brush their rabbit and don’t do any blowing and that is fine too, however you will find the rabbits wool will be less dense.

You will find that your rabbit will shed its coat anywhere from 7 to 12 months. Your first indication of them shedding their coat will be when you are grooming large amounts of wool will brush out. At that time you will need to either clip or pluck the wool from the rabbit. Clipping (cutting the wool) is the fastest way to remove the wool from the rabbit. Plucking can take several days before the rabbit is completely done.

If you have an angora for a house pet, I suggest you constantly keep the wool clipped to a shorter length. You will have less wool to clean-up around the house and your grooming time will be minimal. I have several people who have angoras as house pets because they love their gentle nature, they keep them clipped with a 'poodle' cut!

HOUSE TRAINING:

Some of you may want to house train your bunny. This is not a difficult process, but it is time consuming.

Step 1:

Place your new rabbit in the cage and do not disturb or handle for about 24 hours. Observe which corner the rabbit uses to urinate in. Once the rabbit has scented out one spot to use as its toilet it will always return to the same spot.

Step 2:

Put your litter box over the selected corner. Once you determine the rabbit is using the box you may start handling the rabbit. Start by removing your bunny for 10 to 15 minutes several times a day.

Step 3:

You may now leave the rabbit out of its cage for longer periods of time, but watch carefully and return it to the cage if it shows signs of lifting its tail to urinate. If you catch it urinating outside of its cage you can spray it with a water bottle and return it to the cage. By the end of the third week you should be able to leave the door of the cage open so it may enter to use the litter box.

Step 4:

If you catch the rabbit using a rug, etc. for the litter box, spray the spot with apple bitters and it will not return. NEVER hit your rabbit for urinating on the floor, this will only make it mean and aggressive.

Step 5:

Rabbits love to chew on things. They will chew lamp cords, chair legs, carpets, etc. I would suggest you rub tobasco sauce on the cords and if you start to see it chew on the cord use your water bottle and spray it.

Step 6:

When you leave home, NEVER leave your bunny out. Always put it in the cage.

Step 7:

Your bunny may leave some droppings here and there, however, a whisk broom and dust pan will take care of this. Do not leave the droppings on the floor, as this will only encourage your bunny to use this area for its new toilet

With smaller rabbit breeds, indoor pet rabbits may be housed in a rabbit cage 15" x 24" as long as they spend part of their day outside their cage. A 30" rabbit cage is a much better choice. Still better are rabbit condos and larger cages which help your rabbit get all of the exercise he or she needs. Obviously larger breeds require more space

In all but the coldest of US winters (and hottest of summers), bunnies can live safely outside (20 degrees with adequate housing is no problem, but I can't vouch for -30 or 110 degrees). It is important that your pet rabbit have a place to get in from the rain, wind, and sunshine, though. A roof and one solid side is minimum, but a small wooden enclosure is better. You may want to cover your hutches with tarps during really bad weather and bring bunny inside anytime there is a severe weather warning for outdoor animals. If you live in an area of extreme weather, try to locate breeders in your area for specific tips for your location.



good luck with your rabbit any way
i would have thought so yes
I don't think so he will as rabbits can stand a temperature as cold as 10 degrees.I know because I put my rabbit outside too,
and she still is a healthy and bouncy rabbit.Hope that answered your question and good luck on the rabbit!
Cheers,
Cariss
yes
I guess it would depend on the kind of rain wouldn't it? If it is a warm summer rain then I wouldn't think that they would have a problem but if it is only 35 outside then I wouldn't let it out in the rain.
Rabbits have more of a problem with drafts, if your rabbit got all wet and was then left in an outside hutch it could very well develope snuffles (don't let the name fool you). Rabbits don't need to be around another sick animal to catch a cold, they are very sensitive animals and can develope sicknesses all on their own. A good site to learn about stuff like this is doubledutchrabbitry.com
Rabbit's can get snuffles, which is discharge from there eyes and lots of snezing, it can be deadly. But i think it is caused by stress and diet. Not rain.I would let him keep playing in the rain, its what they do in the wild although i would be carefull if he gets cold. If you are really worried get a tarpaulin, thats what i did.
if u were out in the rain u would get cold feet.
i recently had my rabbit at the vet with snuffles. apparantly its something which rabbits carry in their genes and stress, poor diet or extreme or sudden changes in temperature can bring on. if its just the occasional sneeze then it usually clears up itself as long as kept warm and dry. however vets like to treat bunnies quite vigorously with antibiotics as they have such small and delicate respiratory systems. it can also lead to a build up of mucus in the sinus system, pneumonia, etc etc so if he has a runny nose or eyes or the sneezing is very frequent, id take him to the vet - better safe than sorry.
yes

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